A Comprehensive Guide to Gold-Plated, Gold-Filled Brass and Various Gold Types in Jewellery Making

In 2024, the most accessible jewellery is gold-plated. If you still hesitate to choose which type of gold-plated jewellery, our article is here to help. This article will break down all the criteria of plated gold jewellery to help you make the right decision: from the purity of plated gold, the thickness of the plated gold, the substrate used to plate the gold, and maintenance tips.

Understand the Purities of Gold

There is a standard measure of gold purity used in jewellery, and the unit is called karats (K). When you look for gold jewellery, you often find the following purities: 24K, 18K, 14K, and 10K across different retailers. The purest gold is 24K gold, which is too soft for most jewellery applications and is often alloyed with other metals such as copper, brass, silver, nickel, tin, or zinc to enhance its durability.

• 24K Gold: The synonym of pure gold, with a deep yellow colour, 24K gold is too soft to make intricate designs and difficult to maintain its shape, which makes it rarely used for jewellery making.
• 18K Gold: This gold combines around 75% gold with 25% other metals, making it the most popular for high-end jewellery. The high value of gold and the hardness of this gold are commonly appreciated by both jewellery makers and buyers.
• 14K Gold: Containing at least 58% gold, completed by other metals like brass or copper, 14K gold is the first option for those looking for the perfect price/quality ratio.
• 10K Gold: The gold that contains the least gold among the others, with a minimum of 42% gold. 10K gold is very durable and is often used in affordable jewellery. It has a paler colour compared to higher-karat golds.

The Thickness of Gold-Plated Jewellery

Gold-plated jewellery needs a base metal called a substrate. Usually, jewellery makers prefer brass or bronze, on which they coat a thin layer of gold through the electroplating technique. This method is cost-effective, allowing consumers to enjoy the look of solid gold jewellery without overspending their money.

• Thickness: The thickness of the gold layer on gold-plated jewellery can be measured in a unit called microns. Its value can vary from 0.5 to 10 microns, with thicker layers providing longer-lasting wear. To extend the life of the electroplated coat, you should avoid overexposing your jewellery to water, perfumes, or lotions. However, even the thickest gold plating is subject to wear over time, especially with frequent use.

Thin Plating (0.5 to 1 Micron):

• Characteristics: This thickness of plated gold is often used for fashion jewellery or pieces intended for occasional wear. Their prices are usually very friendly and accessible.
• Suitability: Ideal for budget-conscious buyers or those who want the look of gold at an affordable price. However, the thin layer is more prone to wear and may fade quickly with frequent use, but with brass as the substrate, this faded coat cannot be easily noticed.

Mid-Range Plating (2 to 5 Microns):

• Characteristics: Offering a more durable layer of gold, this thickness is commonly found in accessible luxury jewellery, independent jewellery makers, or designers. It’s definitely a good option for those looking for value for money, quality, and social class recognition.

• Suitability: Suitable for everyday wear, this option appeals to consumers who want a durable, gold-plated piece without the unaffordable cost of heavier plating. This level of electroplating is often resistant to tarnish and wear.

Thick Plating (Above 5 Microns, up to 10 Microns):

• Characteristics: This category features a substantial layer of gold, giving the jewellery a more luxurious appearance and feel, similar to solid gold.

• Suitability: Best for those willing to invest in a piece that will last longer and maintain its gold lustre over time. It's an excellent choice for accessible luxury shoppers who desire longevity and a higher-end look without the expense of solid gold jewellery.

Vermeil: High-Quality Gold Plating Based on Sterling Silver

When your jewellery is made with a sterling silver substrate and plated with 10K or higher purity gold, and the gold layer is greater than or equal to 2.5 microns, we call your jewellery vermeil. Vermeil is a sincere option for those who want to offer luxurious jewellery to someone for an important life event without breaking the bank.

• Care: Like gold-plated jewellery, vermeil requires careful handling to avoid wear and maintain its lustre.

Gold-Filled Jewellery: A True Luxury Option Based on Brass

Gold-filled jewellery offers a nice option between solid gold and gold plating. The making process relies on mechanically bonding a thick layer of gold to the brass, then reshaping the material to the predefined design. The bonded gold layer is much thicker than gold-plated jewellery. 5% of the total weight of the piece is a non-conventional minimum requirement for any gold-filled jewellery.

• Durability: Gold-filled jewellery is significantly more durable than gold-plated jewellery. Without any intentional or accidental shocks or deep scratches, it can last for decades. Tarnish or flaking is unlikely and can be easily renewed.

• Value: More expensive than gold-plated jewellery, gold-filled pieces are much less expensive than solid gold, making them the most popular choice for those seeking long-lasting, high-quality jewellery on a limited budget.

The Specificity of Brass Gold-Plated Jewellery

Gold-plated brass jewellery is particularly appealing to two types of consumers: those who want the luxurious appearance of gold and are very demanding in terms of unique design and styling, or those who have a limited budget but love the glimmer of pure gold. These pieces offer the flexibility to explore different styles and trends without compromising on quality.

One of the key advantages of using brass as a base metal or substrate is its ability to be easily shaped and moulded into intricate designs and its hardness. This allows jewellers to create detailed, artistic pieces that retain their structural integrity over time. Additionally, the natural flaked gold layer will never be noticed due to the colour similarity, adding a layer of character and history to the jewellery, making each piece unique.

Moreover, the durability of brass ensures that the jewellery can withstand daily wear, making it practical for those who care about style and day-to-day confidence in their outfits.

Conclusion

To wrap up, the thickness of the gold layer significantly affects the gold layer’s durability and appearance. Choose a mid-range plating of 2 to 5 microns for everyday wear. If you seek a more luxurious feel, thicker plating above 5 microns or vermeil jewellery offers greater durability and a more substantial gold appearance. Apart from the thickness, opt for gold-plated brass, as the colour of brass is very similar to gold; even with a flaked coat, it’s hard to notice the difference. Always choose reputable sellers who provide details about the gold plating process and care instructions. Remember, proper maintenance, such as avoiding water and chemicals, can extend the life and shine of your gold-plated pieces.